Soviet Steel – Chain Link Fencing

Hi all, as I’ve been researching how to build fences for my rift-tech research camp I’ve seen many images of both POW camps and the heartbreaking concentration camps that were discovered by advancing troops in 1944.   The image above is striking and really brings home the grim reality of what happened to many innocent people.    What I’m modelling is in no way an attempt to glorify or diminish those events, merely my take on a fictional universe with dark deeds and glorious heroes.  I’m confident that everyone within the K47 community is on the same page in this, but as this goes out on the internet, I felt some explanation / comment was necessary.

I’m sorry if I’ve brought the spirit of the piece down, now onto sweet hobby content.   I’ve sourced my Watch Towers and Jails / Experimentation centres, the only thing I can’t source is suitable fencing.  So I thought I’d make my own.   Time is at a premium so I decided to look at doing this the easy way!

Charlie Foxtrot Models do great mdf buildings in 28mm and they have a lovely fencing range.   I contacted them and they very kindly agreed to sell me the bases that they use for their fences.    When I explained my idea to them, they also offered to do the poles that I’d need for my prison/science base fence too!    With the plan coming together in my mind I hit ebay.   A search for insect mesh brought me some fine gauge sheeting that can easily be cut to length and height and glued to my posts.    I’ve picked up a cheap roll of barbed wire for the top.

I’m going to do a stage by stage of how I create my chainlink fences and link in where I got the bits from.   Feel free to comment / steal / amend my plans as appropriate for your forces.

First I’m going to put the posts in place and then put sand on the bases.   I’m using the fence bases from Charlie Foxtrot, but I needed a way of holding the posts relatively straight and square whilst the pva dried.   So I used another fence base as a template.

Fence-template
Fixing the Posts in place

The posts for the fences are 72mm in length.    I chose this length because it would give me a 2 ” height fence (bigger than most normal Bolt Action models) and it would then give a further 20mm for me to glue barbed wire across to discourage escape attempts!

I cut my insect mesh into 5cm high strips and then cut to fit each fence base. I’ve not got a picture of me supergluing this into place.    Trust me you wouldn’t want one.   I’m not the most graceful modeller!     I then glued my barbed wire across the top and to myself, multiple times until eventually i got it right!

Unlike my colleague James, I use builders sand for my bases.    Not fine grade but a mixture used in the UK for mixing into concrete and the like.    I find the mixed grade of granules and small pebbles to be an excellent way of modelling rough ground quickly and easily.

Fence-Sand
Fences Based with builders sand

I use a dark brown on my bases as I expect wet/frozen dirt to be dark in colour and given that I’m adding snow to these bases…  well you get the picture.

The mesh for the fencing and barbed wire will also be painted with a dark brown.   This is to give my metal fence a good base when I weather it with rust.    Again this is fencing that is sat outside in the middle of a Russian Winter, I expect there to be patches of oxidisation and rust.    The posts will be painted a light brown and drybrushed with a light grey to give both contrast to the base and metal fence and to reflect dried frozen wood.

Fence-Brown
I sprayed the Bases with Vallejo Model Color – Chocolate Brown

I’m using dead grass tufts which I will add PVA to in places and then dust with snow to mimic frozen vegetation covered in snow.    I’m using two different snow products.   Army Painter Snow which has very thick granules and gives a quite sandy effect (I’m not keen) and the far better realistic snow flakes which I saw someone on the Bolt Action group using and bought on their recommendation  and results.    They’re much softer and finer and allow me to soften and create drifts of snow based on the cheaper and less realistic army painter stuff.  I used James’ snow method for the first time and I was quite pleased with the result.   I still think I need to go and put a soft dusting over the top with the nice snow flakes that I bought however.   The army painter snow isn’t great in my opinion.

Fence-snow-tufts
Fences with Tufts and Snow effect on the bases and wires.

Finally I’m going to use patches of rust and orange vallejo air paint to create areas of weathered metal surrounded by metal in better quality which will be drybrushed with Vallejo Air Gun Metal (Chainmail in old GW parlance).    I use Vallejo Air whenever possible as it is much thinner than regular paint yet has excellent pigment.   This allows me to cheat when doing layers as my paint is already very thin and makes it easy to build up layers and smooth transitions (when I take my time)

Fence-done
Finished sections of bases with towers and rift tech in the background.

I’ve had a go at writing some rules for the Fences, see what you think.

Electric Fences:

Cover – Soft

Electric Fences are impassable terrain for infantry unless disabled by engineers or broken down by vehicles!    These fences rely upon the power electrical charge they carry to discourage escape attempts rather than being unbreakable fortifications.

A section of Fencing can be disabled by any engineers within your army, or by being assaulted and driven through by Walkers or vehicles.  For engineers to disable a section of fencing (and cut a hole through) they must spend a turn in contact with the fence (they can do this whilst down).   At the end of the Turn roll a D6 on the Fence Disabled Table and -1 for each Pin that the unit has.

A section of Fencing can be driven through and disabled by any vehicle or walker in your army.    To do this, simply issue and advance or run order to the unit in question and move it through a section of fencing.    Roll IMMEDIATELY on the Fence Disabled Table and -1 if the vehicle is soft skinned.

Finally a section of fence can be shot at and overloaded by Tesla Weaponry.     A section is hit on a 3+ and is automatically destroyed.    Roll IMMEDIATELY on the Fence Disabled Table and +1 for Tesla.

Fence Disabled Table

1 (or Less) – Disaster Strikes.   The Fence Section is disabled and destroyed but the unit that has breached the fence has made a mistake in some way or another.   An infantry unit immediately takes D2 pins and must be issued a down order for that turn as they take cover from the power surges/ sparks.

A Vehicle immediately stops after the fence and takes a Crew Stunned result as per the vehicle damage table as the crew are shocked by the power surge through the metal hull of their vehicle.

2-5 Success!  The power has been safely severed from the fence and the units are free to act normally.   This section of fence should be removed and no longer grants any cover bonus

6 +  Boom!  Not only is this section of fence removed but if there are any adjoining sections of fence they are overloaded by the sudden power surge caused by the fence being destroyed.    Any units within 2″ of adjoining fence sections suffer D2 pins and must go down / suffer crew stunned as power surges along the fence.    At the end of the following turn a fence section adjoining the destroyed fence section is removed due to this catastrophic overload.   Only one section of fence either side suffers these effects

I thought more than one section of fence adjoining the intially destroyed fence would be a little bit OTT and could swing games very badly.   Please give the rules a try if you like and let us know how you get on – konfliktingopinions@gmail.com

 

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